Shock Removal & Installation
Removal - It is easiest to remove the rear shocks from your Pro-Action Plus rear suspension by un-bolting the limiter straps, this will release most of the pressure off the springs. After loosening the shock mounting bolts, you may have to loosen the bolts in the end of the control rods. After doing this, shake the suspension up and down as you remove the shock mounting bolts. Remove the ski shocks from the sled by raising the front end off ground. On the Mono-shock suspension the shocks can be removed easiest by unbolting the limiter strap. On RA models slide the boot back from the shock body, and loosen the speedo cable style nut, and remove the cable from the shock.
Installation - When installing rear shocks (Pro-action) make sure the nitrogen valves are facing down. On the rear shock the nitrogen valve goes toward the back of the sled. On the center shock the nitrogen valve is at the end bolted to the W-arm. Set the FRA in the desired position, up (toward the tunnel) being softest, down being stiffest. After bolting shocks in place, set the front of the suspension on a board or something similar, and compress it enough to bolt the limiter straps back in place. If you loosened the control arm bolts be sure to tighten them. On the ski shocks the nitrogen valves face the trailing arms.
Ride height - The Pro-action rear suspension is a coupled design, to low of an initial spring pre-load (or FRA adjuster setting), or suspension "set in" can actually make the suspension act stiff by coupling the suspension too quickly, and also make the back end of the sled "kick" when riding aggressively. The FRA adjuster is the bracket at the front of the rear shock, it  has three positions. The FRA can be adjusted by loosening the nut and then turning the bolt (on ’99 and newer models, on older models the adjusting must be done manually) to either move it up or down depending on rider weight. Check ride height by sitting on the sled, you should have equal gap to the top and bottom side of the control rod housing as a good initial starting point, this will keep the suspension un-coupled for the longest period of time giving you the best ride. For aggressive riders, less gap to the bottom side of the control rod will give you less center arm bottoming and less kick when going through the bumps. Remember to keep enough ride height initially and then you can do your fine tuning from there to suit your riding speed and style. If you have adjustable control rods it’s recommended to check your ride height with them in the stock (equal to factory) setting when checking the control rod gap. When finished you can adjust them for the desired ride and weight transfer.

 FRA ADJUSTER (these are only recommended starting points) 

POSITION A: softest, this is up toward the tunnel (up to 185lbs.) 

POSITION B: medium, the center setting (185 to 225lbs.) 

POSITION C: hard, down toward the ground (over 225lbs.)                      

CONTROL ROD ADJUSTMENT: This should be set for the desired amount of weight transfer.

 

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