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SX Wide Kit - installation instructions |
Parts List
2 - Lower Radius Rods 2 - Upper Radius Rods 4 - 3/8" x 2" bolts 2 - Kayaba Shocks 4 - 3/8" Flat Washers 2 - Tie Rods 4 - Rod ends w/spacers 2 - Sway bar spacers and bolts
1 Raise the front of the sled in the air and remove the shocks, radius rods, tie rods, shock mounting brackets, and the sway bar links at the trailing arms.
2 Screw the jam nuts all the way onto the inner tie rod ends. When installing radius rods (and tie rods) the knurled end always goes to the outside. Screw the radius rods all the way onto the inner rod ends and then screw the new rod ends all the way onto the outer end of the radius rods. Put the bolts through the trailing arms and rod ends (don't put nuts on at this time). Screw the radius rods out out exposing about 5/16" thread. Screw the tie rods onto each rod end at the same time.
3 Level the front end of the sled and then level the radius rod (so the front end is at full width). Measuring center to center at the spindles, the front end width should be 42 3/8", if you need to adjust the width change each side equally by turning in or out on the radius rods. When finished measure the length from the center of the rod end to the mounting bolts of the radius rods on each side making sure the front end is centered on the frame.
4 Once the front end width is set tighten the jam nuts on the lower rod ends making sure to keep the rod end outer housing centered with the ball to prevent binding.
5 Install the new shocks in the kit using the original bolts. The upper shock mounting point is now where the upper shock mounting bracket bolt was. Put the bolt through the bushing in the bulkhead. Face the nitrogen fitting out toward the trailing arm.
6 Set the sled on a level surface and set the camber and toe as shown below. It is recommended to lock the handlebars straight while making your adjustments. Make your camber adjustments by adjusting the length of the upper radius rod. As the camber is set toe out on the skis must also be set, improper toe out will give false camber readings, the two must be adjusted together. Camber should be set at 0 0, toe at .125 to .200 toe out.
7 To adjust the ski alignment place a long straight edge up against the side of the track and extend past the skis. With the handlebars straight measure the distance between the front edge of the carbide runner (A) and the rear edge of the carbide runner (B). Leaving the straight edge in place measure the distances at the other ski and adjust as necessary.
Ski toe out should be set at 3 to 5 millimeters (.125-.200 inches) at the carbide.
8 Once camber and toe out are set, put a drop of blue Loctite on the jam nuts and tighten them making sure all the rod end housings are centered on the rod end balls to prevent binding. The upper radius rod jam nuts can be tightened by taking the bolts out of the lower radius rods at the trailing arms and dropping them down out of the way to allow you to get at the upper jam nuts. Put back in place and put the spacers on all of the outer rod ends, the tapered ends go against the ball of the rod end (one each side), put the washers against the bolt head and the nut, (to the outside of the trailing arm bracket). Put a drop of blue Loctite on the bolts through the trailing arm and tighten. Next put a drop of blue Loctite on the outer rod end jam nuts and tighten.
9 Connect the sway bar links. Take the 8 millimeter bolts supplied in the kit and put through the link and spacer from the inside out, put the supplied spacer on the bolt and then put the bolt through the trailing arm. Put the original flange nut on the bolt, blue Loctite and the tighten.
NOTE: WHEN FINISHED CHECK ALL BOLTS AND JAM NUTS FOR TIGHTNESS BEFORE OPERATING THE SLED.
When installing the kit it's recommended to increase the center shock spring pre-load approximately 1/2" and extend the limiter strap around 3/8" allowing the front of the rear suspension to drop out farther.