SRX
WIDE FRONT END KIT W/KAYABA SHOCKS
2 LOWER RADIUS RODS 4 3/8 X 2 BOLTS 2- KAYABA SHOCKS 2 UPPER RADIUS RODS 4 3/8 FLAT WASHERS 2 TIE RODS 4 ROD ENDS W/SPACERS 2 SWAYBAR SPACERS & BOLTS
1
Raise the front of the sled in the air and remove the shocks, radius
rods, tie rods, and the swaybar links at the trailing.
2
Screw the jam nuts all the way onto the inner rod ends. When installing
radius rods (and tie rods) the knurled end always goes to the outside. Screw the
radius rods all the way onto inner rod ends and then screw the new rod ends all
the way onto the outer end of the radius rods. Put the bolts through the
trailing arm and rod ends (dont put nuts on at this time). Screw the radius
rods out exposing about 5/16 thread. Screw the tie rods onto each rod end at
the same time.
3
Level the front end of the sled and then level the radius rod (so the
front end is at full width). Measuring center to center at the spindles, the
front end width should be 42 1/2, if you need to adjust the width change each
side equally at the radius rod by turning in or out on the radius rod. When
finished measure the length from the center of the rod end to the mounting bolts
of the radius rods on each side making sure the front end is centered on the
frame.
4 Once the front end width is set tighten the jam nuts on the lower rod ends, making sure you keep the rod end outer housing centered with the ball to prevent binding.
5 Install the new shocks supplied in the kit using the original bolts. Make sure to face the nitrogen valve out toward the trailing arm.
6 Set the set on a level surface and set the camber and toe in as shown below. It is recommended to lock the handlebars straight while making your adjustments. Make your camber adjustments by adjusting the length of the upper radius rod. As the camber is set the toe out on the skis must also be set, improper toe out will cause false camber reading, the two settings must be adjusted together. Camber should be set at 00, toe at .125 to .200 toe out.
7 To adjust the ski alignment place a long straight edge up against the side of the track and extend past the skis. With the handlebars straight measure the distance between the front edge of the carbide runner (A) and the rear edge of the carbide runner (B). Leaving the straight edge in place measure the distances at the other ski and adjust as necessary.
Ski toe out should be
set at 3 to 5 millimeters (.125-.200 inches) at the carbide.
(A)-(C)=TOE OUT
8
Once camber and toe out are set, put a drop of blue loctite on the jam
nuts and tighten them making sure all the rod end housings are centered on the
rod end balls to prevent binding. The upper radius rod jam nuts can be tightened
by taking the bolts out of the lower radius rods at the trailing arms and
dropping them down out of the way to allow you to get at the upper jam nuts. Put
back in place and put the spacers on all of the outer rod ends, the tapered ends
go against the ball of the rod end (one each side), put the washers against the
bolt head and the nut, (to the outside of the trailing arm bracket). Put a drop
of blue loctite on the bolts through the trailing arm and tighten. Next put a
drop of blue loctite on the outer rod end jam nuts and tighten.
9
Connect the swaybar links. Take the 8 millimeter bolts supplied in the
kit and put through the link and spacer from the inside out, put the supplied
spacer on the bolt and the put the bolt through the trailing arm. Put the
original flange nut on the bolt, blue loctite and tighten.
NOTE: WHEN FINISHED CHECK ALL BOLTS AND JAM NUTS
FOR TIGHTNESS BEFORE
OPERATING THE SLED.
When installing the kit its recommended to increase the center shock spring pre-load approximately ½ and extended the limiter strap length 3/8 allowing the front of the rear suspension to drop out further.